I first laid eyes on Venice in 2009. I was studying abroad in Rome and took a weekend trip with girlfriends to the wonderful waterlogged town, and what I have remembered most over the years is the warm wind, dining outside along the quiet canals, and the beautiful facades at every turn. I absolutely loved it.
But then there are a lot of people who hate it. Who think it’s too hot. Too crowded. Too smelly. Can it be all those things? Perhaps, but it can also be a fairytale of food and seascapes. As my husband put it “It was the closest thing to a painting I have ever seen in real life.” I’m going to show you that Venice.
But first I’ll tell you about my recent trip to Venice. It was this summer (2018) when I traveled to Croatia for my (Croatian) brother-in-law’s wedding that we took a day trip to Italy. For part of our three week trip (which included a week in Paris!) were staying with my husband’s family in the Istrian region of Croatia. Istria was part of Italy up until World War II and still has a huge Italian influence, plus it’s basically its next door neighbor. (I say basically because, well, Slovenia.) While we were planning the trip my husband’s aunt (who we were stayed with in Istria) asked, “Would you like to go to Venice for the day?” Ummm… first off, who gets asked that question? I clearly did something right in life. And second of all, YES!
My husband has never been to Italy (well, he lived in Milan for a bit during the Balkan War when he was a kid but never in his adult life) so I was mostly excited to see his reaction to Venice, wondering if it would be the same as mine was.
A few notes here. We took a day trip to Venice. We left Croatia early in the morning with his cousin, spent a majority of the day exploring the city, and drove back to Croatia that night. So we didn’t get the romantic side of Venice… strolling the canals at night… after perhaps a bit too much wine? Next time. Instead we saw Venice as nearby Europeans do, as day trippers! So much of my recommendations are based on this fact.
So with that, here are some day-time Venice recommendations!
Eat & Drink
All’Arco. In the spirit of full disclosure, we didn’t eat here, but I really wanted to. I ended up getting into a little tiff with another group waiting to grab a seat (what, I was hangry, what can I say) annnnd my husband was embarrassed (not an uncommon occurrence) and walked away. It’s actually really funny to think about looking back. All’Arco is your classic Italian old-man afternoon aperitif joint. Perfect for some cicchetti (Italian bread and toppings tapas) and an Aperol spritz. The vibe was awesome. Be prepared to wait for a seat, of grab a drink and stand outside. Fun little snack or lunch spot.
Vino Vero. So after causing a scene at All'Arco we hangrally walked in the hot hot heat to the Cannaregio neighborhood. We strolled the main canal and ultimately decided we liked the vibe and prices of Vino Vero the best. It’s basically a cicchetti/wine bar with outdoor seating along the canal. The cicchetti was AMAZING. Modern flavors done traditional and there wasn’t one I tried I didn’t love. And at €2.50 a pop, just order tons. The wine selection is also fantastic. I got an orange wine from some region in Italy I can’t remember (helpful, I know). This would be a great place for an afternoon snack and glass of wine. We went for lunch. Also just a fantastic place if you need to get away from the crowds of San Marco.
Osteria Al Squero. We walked by here, but again with only 10 hours we couldn’t do everything. I don’t have anything to say about the actual restaurant but there are a dozen lining the street that will suit you just fine. The thing I loved about this area is that all the young kids (how old am I?) were outside drinking their spritzes along a quiet section of the canals. It screamed Italian to me (and I lived in Rome for 4 months so I know Italian.) Also right across the canal is the ONLY gondola maker left in Venice, very cool to see.
Hotel Danieli. Again, I didn’t go but this was recommended to me as a perfect place to go for drinks for a rooftop view of the city (right by the Bridge of Sighs of Saint Mark’s Square).
Gelato. Get it anywhere. It’s Italy and it’s amazing.
Coffee
Caffè Florian. Some touristy things are 100% worth it. I knew going back to Venice I was going to spend $25 on a bad cup of coffee and I was so excited about it. Sitting at Caffè Florian was one of my absolute favorite things I did back in 2009 and I couldn’t wait to do it again. It’s one of the fancy cafes along Piazza San Marco and dates back to 1720. The history radiates from the walls. Grab a seat under the marble colonnade, don’t think for a second about the money, and enjoy the violins and waiters in white suitcoats and black bowties ready to take your order. Your attire may not match the scene, but the feeling you’ll get will. It’s a special place to feel part of history and to imagine what it must have felt like to have a coffee here back in the 1700s. Take a look around. See how impressive Saint Mark's Square is today? Now imagine walking into here 300 years ago. It’s mind blowing.
Do & See
San Trovaso. The only place in Venice where they are sill making gondolas and amazingly not touristy at all. It is a working workshop where you can catch a glimpse of the artisans at work, it’s pretty cool and I loved seeing it, but there isn’t much to it besides a quick walk by, just as a warning.
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Go for the views of Saint Mark’s Square across the Grand Canal. It’s like every painting you have ever seen in Venice and will transport you back to the 1600s.
Acqua Alta Library. I did not see this my first time in Venice and I was dying to see it this time around. It did not disappoint. I spent almost an hour in the book store browsing around. Find something that looks interesting and give it a skim in the gondola tied outside. It is a magical place.
Saint Mark’s Square. Saint Mark’s Square is a must see. Yes, it’s crowded with tourists but don’t let that’s stop you from admiring the architecture and imagining what it would have been like to step foot here in the 1500s.
Basilica di San Marco. I actually have never been in Saint Mark’s… which writing seems strange because I am Catholic and I love going into Churches. I think I skipped it both times because the line is so long. And the outside is so gorgeous I didn’t feel the need to go inside. But it is supposed to be beautiful. Next time.
Saint Mark’s Bell Tower. You have to pay and wait in line, but I did this my first time in Venice and really enjoyed it. The view is great but what I remember loving is staying up there until the bells ring, you’ll for sure have to plug your ears, but it’s cool to see.
Saint Mark’s Clock Tower. A beautiful clock with an interesting history. Read about Wikipedia and don’t forget to admire it while walking through the square.
Bridge of Sighs. A gorgeous, high, limestone covered bridge over a canal leading from the palace to the prison. It is called the Bridge of Sighs because it’s said the prisoners would pause there and look out of the windows crying while being led into the prison.
Rialto Bridge. Super touristy but if you can get yourself to somehow ignore the crowds and focus on the architecture it's quite beautiful. It is the oldest of only four bridges that span the Grand Canal. The shops on the bridge now are mostly tacky souvenir shops, so no need to visit them.
Gondola Ride. I only did a gondola ride my first time in Venice (again, not enough time during a day trip) but it was oh so worth it. A few things to know: they are expensive. I think it is at least €100? Possibly more. They are cheaper during the day, but I would HIGHLY recommend doing one at night after dinner and a few glasses of wine. I remember it being so beautiful and romantic late at night and if I had stayed the night I would have done it again this trip.
Other
Murano and Bunano Islands. If you have a few days in Venice it is worth getting off the main island and visiting Murano and Bunano. Murano is where Venician glass is made and you’ll find a mix of touristy displays and some interesting glass blowing. Bunano is where all the colorful houses are you often see in pictures.
Giudecca Neighborhood. This is where I stayed in Venice in 2009. I don’t remember anything super special about it besides it being very quiet and this AMAZING sea food meal I had along the big canal there. We sat so close to the water the waves would come up and splash my feet. It was amazing. I’m not saying you need to go here, but find a place like this!
